Beachin it in Rio

Beaching it in Rio

If you are a serious beach bum, sun worshiper, surfer, boogie boarder, bikini watcher or whatever, the beaches in Rio will be like arriving in Nirvana; well, almost!

A good strategy, if you want to see and experience all of them, should begin in the northeast at the beaches of Flamengo, Botofogo, Urca and Vermelha. Although the waters are polluted, the vistas and people watching can make for a very pleasurable experience. As you move further south and west, you will find sparkling sands in Leme which is popular with senior citizens. From there you run into the world famous Copacabana (actually, you really can't tell where Leme ends and Copa begins as it is all one long stretch of beach). Copa is a 3.2km long stretch of beach bordered by the mosaic patterned sidewalk on the beachside, and a similar but wider sidewalk across two 3 lane stretches of Avenida Atlantica. The beaches and sidewalks are lined with kiosks, outdoor cafes, vendors, high rise hotels and apartment buildings. Jogging and bike paths are located on the beach side. (Make sure you look before crossing). At the western end of Copacabana, you can either cut around the small Aporador Beach (a favorite surfing location) or take Avenida Franscisco Otaviano to Ipanema. For many, Ipanema is a favorite, owing to smaller crowds, less pollution, fewer touts, better restaurants close by and a somewhat different minded crowd than Copa. As you move west, when you cross the drainage ditch, you have entered Leblon (and a more polluted beach area).

Keeping a westerly trend, you must go around a mountain to get to little Vidigal and even more mountains to get to San Conrado. At the eastern end of this beach you will often find large groups of surfers and on the western end is where you will find the hang gliders jumping off high cliffs and landing in the sand in front of you. A lot of areas of this beach are marked as private and are claimed by the upscale high rise condominiums that face its frontage but few if any ever impose restrictions on access. This beach is wide, often not very crowded, has fewer kiosks and vendors and is a great place for a little peace and quiet.

After a few zigs and zags through local roads, you can follow the highway through a tunneled mountain forming the link to Barra da Tijuca and its spectacular and clean waters. Many good restaurants can be found along the road opposite the beach and there are many convenient kiosks that sell food, drinks and other refreshments.

Beyond Barra are Prainha which is a favorite with surfers and Grumari which is often crowded with people enjoying its copper colored sands.

Surfboards and boogie boards can be rented locally so you do not have to pack your own. Beach chairs and umbrellas are easily available from vendors on most of the beaches. Food and refreshments are sold by wandering touts, are available at juice bars and beachside kiosks and restaurants lining the opposing sides of the roads. Bathrooms may be somewhat limited but most places do not refuse access to tourists, especially if you are buying something. Remember your camera, your sunscreen and towels. Leave valuables, except a small amount of cash, in your safe or your room. Although the police do a pretty good job of keeping an eye open, it is not unusual for thefts to take place on the beach.

To get there, you can take a taxi (consider hiring for the day if you want to see all of them). If finding girls is your primary goal, Copa is a haven. Directly in front of Alcazar, Rio Othon Hotel and Mabs are popular destinations for the Help, Termas and nightclub Garotas de Programmas to hang out during the day. They go to work on their tans and seek a little extra money from tourists looking for some action. If you are timid about approaching them or uncertain if they are working girls, just ask the beach chair vendors which girls are available. They will most likely even introduce them to you. As always, negotiate time and money beforehand. Many have to leave for work in the afternoon or evenings and will only be interested in short time. Help girls may be more available for longer term encounters.
Onibusses and minivans will drop you off anywhere along the way that you wish. If you are brave enough to have a private vehicle, there are affordable parking areas along the waterfront avenues. Just look for the people in green and yellow vests for assistance but unload your passengers first as parking is tight. You can also take one of many tours operated by local agencies.

The beaches of Rio offer a little something for just about anybody. If walking and jogging are your target, it is hard to beat the areas around Copacabana. If you like surfing or other water sports, Prainha, Arpoador and the eastern end of San Conrado are your best bet. If you want peace, sun and relaxation, Flamengo, Leme and San Conrado are good destinations. If you want to be around a more upscale crowd, try Ipanema and San Conrado.

There are working girls on other beaches but target identification is not as easy. Posts 9 in Ipanema is known to have many working girls. Best to ask a beach chair vendor for assistance or you may get a drink thrown in your face or much worse, get the shit beaten out of you by an angry boyfriend or brother! But, always remember, even though they may not be regular program girls, it does not mean that they would not love meeting a foreigner and developing a relationship. They may even sleep with you on a first date just to keep you interested. It is not as simple or easy as with a program girl but it can and does happen often. Just make sure you have brushed up on your Portuguese skills and have some preplanned destination, beside your bedroom, in mind when striking up a conversation. Lunch or a drink is always a great ice breaker and safe for both parties if the chemistry is not right.

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